Drywall Repair Coquitlam Contractor?

Thanks again for visiting my website, Drywall Repair Coquitlam and as I mentioned earlier, I wanted to recommend an excellent drywall repair Coquitlam based contractor to you.

Choosing a Drywall Repair Coquitlam Contractor

Nowadays, to find a reliable, professional, drywall repair Coquitlam based contractor that will “actually do” what they say, at a price that is reasonable, is a challenge to say the least. There are just too many so called “contractors” out there that are advertising their services, yet lack the technical expertise needed. I mean, have you seen the show Holmes on Homes? Shocking isn’t it that these guys will take your money and just dump people with an unfinished mess. You also often hear of stories where the contractor starts the job, then after a day or so, informs you that he has to attend to another job he is busy with, and will be back very soon and ends up dragging the job out for weeks. This causes a huge inconvenience to the homeowner and unnecessary frustration.  So before you take a chance in choosing a drywall repair Coquitlam based contractor that has little or no references, you might want to consider my recommendation.

My Recommended Drywall Repair Coquitlam Contractor

YOUR NAME GOES HERE, based in TOWN, operated by YOUR NAME offers a great service at competitive rates. I got to hear about YOUR NAME at a social event and found his work to be of excellent quality. Recently we visited YOUR NAME and his family and there was a couple there who have dealt with YOUR NAME for many years. They couldn’t rate him highly enough for his friendly, efficient service.

YOUR NAME has been offering a complete professional painting service since XXXX. He is highly proficient in interior and exterior painting.  His speciality is drywall, gypsum or sheetrock repair and also does beautifully textured ceilings.

Normally, when we try to do work like this ourselves, it can take weeks, due to the limited time that we can spend on the project. Dave has a reputation of providing a quality, yet fast service that will minimize the inconvenience of having work done in your home.

So give YOUR NAME a call on YOUR NUMBER and mention you found him on www.drywallrepaircoquitlam.com for a free quotation and mystery discount!

Drywall Repair Coquitlam wishes you all the best with your  home projects!









drywall repair coquitlam

Drywall Repair Coquitlam?

Drywall Repair Coquitlam

Okay, why a blog called Drywall Repair Coquitlam?

Well, have you ever had one of those experiences in life that left you so angry, so upset that you promised yourself that when it was over you were going to make sure everyone in the world knew about it and that the person who hurt you would pay dearly for their actions?

Most of us have. Now, to many of us, it is no secret how unscrupulous home improvement contractors can be… But we never think it will be one of us that gets taken, right?!

You are looking to have a drywall repair coquitlam project done around the house, so you hire a guy out of the phone book to do it and what happens, he takes the deposit and never shows up, or if he does, the job is done in a less than professional manner, often left unfinished and with him harassing you for final payment and the threat of a lawsuit.

Been there? Probably someone you know has too!

Unfortunately, most of us do not have the energy to actually try and make a difference in this world after having gone through an experience like that, but I pledged to at least try and so I have.

I present to you, Drywall Repair Coquitlam and if I can spare just one person, the trouble my wife and I went through, while simply trying to get some drywall repair done, well then, I’ve done a good thing.

Drywall Repair Coquitlam – DIY or hiring a Pro

If you are thinking about doing some drywall repair in your house yourself, or hiring an experienced drywall repair Coquitlam based contractor to do it for you, I sure hope you will take a few moments to read through this page to help prepare yourself for the process.

This few moments of your time could save you hundreds, if not thousands of dollars and probably a ton of grief aswell.

Why do we need drywall repair done in our homes? Well, it could be through the result of drywall water damage or accidentally breaking a hole in the wall or enclosing or modifying wiring for appliances, etc. Doing drywall or sheetrock repair , is not something we average folk do very often, true? However, it is one major home improvement task some of us feel we can take on ourselves. How hard can it be, right?

I thought the same thing. After wasting a lot of money and a few weekends trying to repair some drywall at our house, my wife finally convinced me to give in and call a professional drywall repair Coquitlam contractor to finish and fix what I had started.

Pretty humiliating, and embarrassing… and of course, avoidable had I taken the time to educate myself on a few very important drywall repair techniques. Not to mention committing the cardinal sin most novice weekend warriors make… skimping on the necessary stages and settling for the cheapest materials and tools!

Also, I convinced myself, at the painting stage, primer was just the paint manufacturers way of wringing more money out of you and was an unnecessary step in the painting process… wrong again!

Well, I swallowed my pride and admitted to my wife I was in over my head and moved on to the daunting task of finding a reputable, professional drywall repair Coquitlam based contractor. After watching shows like Holmes on Homes, I was clueless as who to choose. Of course I did not do my homework thoroughly and my bad drywall repair project turned into an absolute nightmare!

This website is my attempt to right a few wrongs.

Drywall Repair Coquitlam- Finding the right contractor

Now, you may have noticed that the name of my site, Drywall Repair Coquitlam is a bit awkward, but I chose those words specifically because they were exactly what I typed into Google when I started my search for a local drywall repair contractor in Coquitlam.

You may have done the same as me and hopefully,  this website showed up, and can now give you a few pointers on how to locate a great contractor, or, if you want to do the project yourself, give you some tips on how to go about it.

From basic holes to larger areas, from the tools necessary to do the job properly, to the type of materials to use, I will try and share with you what I have learned over the last few months.

I will also recommend a very good Coquitlam based drywall repair contractor whom I feel is not only professional, timely and honest, but affordable as well.

And, as much as I want to do so, I cannot bring myself to mentioning the name of the outfit that put me through home improvement hell, who by the way, the Better Business Bureau vouched for.

I’ll provide links to helpful sites like where to buy drywall tools such as and paint suppliers and manufacturers, aswell as looking at the pros and cons of doing the project yourself, versus hiring a professional drywall repair contractor.

If you are a DIY kind of guy or girl, we will look at the materials you will need, damaged area preparation, safety aspects, material code compliance,  the proper drywall repair procedure to use (I goofed up big time on this one!), the proper drywall repair tools, including sponge brushes, knives and rollers, mesh tape  and so much more!

So, if you do not know your mesh tape from your masking tape, or your joint compound from your elbows, then please spend a few minutes going through the site.

Drywall Repair Coquitlam is intended to be an ever expanding source for the little guy, put together by a little guy just trying to right a few wrongs and make our city a better place! Not to mention one that has beautifully repaired drywalls with no unsightly patches or poor workmanship messing up our homes!!

Thankyou for visiting our site, Drywall Repair Coquitlam.

Sandy asks…


My neice flooded the bathroom upstairs, the water seeped through the floors now the ceiling underneath it cracking and both light fixtures in the dining room and kitchen now dont work, the crack are getting worse and the water is still leaking like 30mins after, how can i stop this! how can i make sure my ceilings wont fall through!!!

admin answers:

Punch holes in it and release the water. It’s coming down anyway, get the weight off the drywall.

Joseph asks…

How to repair plaster walls?

Our upstairs bath still has plaster walls that have “spider webbed” really bad. In the bedroom upstairs, the plaster has holes through it to the slats in a 1 foot square section and the plaster coat is off the ceiling. How can I repair this?

admin answers:

Use joint compound, but you need the kind that you mix with water (hard mud) — NOT the ready-to-use stuff that comes in a bucket (soft mud).

For your bedroom ceiling, mix up a good quantity of Easy-Sand 20 compound, and apply it with a 14-inch taping knife so it’s flush with the existing ceiling. Wait overnight until it’s dry, then sand with an electric orbital sander, using an 80-grit sanding disc. Now you can apply a coat of soft mud with the 14-inch taping knife. Again, wait overnight to dry. Sand with a hand sander and drywall sanding screen (do not use power sander with soft mud). Prime the area, then paint the ceiling to match.

Steven asks…

I am trying to run some wires down an insulated wall?

I am trying to run 2 HDMI cables down an insulated wall, the only problem i am having is that all the insulation is stuffed into this little section in the wall and i can’t get the wires past it. any suggestions i dont have any of the tools that your supposed to have but i have done it before.

admin answers:

I assume your wall is made of wooden studs covered by drywall on the inside. If so, the problem is that 14 inch pieces of 2X4 are placed between the studs to connect them together. That’s the barrier to your wire. So here’s what to do.

Attach a weight to the wire and feed the wire down from the top inside the wall until it stops. The weight should be heavy enough to make a significant noise when it hits a 2X4 and thin enough to go through a 1 inch hole. A fishing weight will work. Shove the wire through as far as it will easily go, until it bumps against the 2X4. Mark the wire with tape and them pull it out and measure the part that was inside the wall. That will tell you how far down the 2X4 is. Allow another 3 to 5 inches to account for the thickness of the floor above, if necessary.

Put a pencil mark on the inside wall far enough from the ceiling to match the length of wire that was in the wall. Drive a thin nail through the drywall into the 2X4 to prove you found it. Make a hole in the drywall the size of your fist just above the 2X4.

Drill a 1 inch hole vertically through the 2X4. Lower the wire through the wall again. When the weight hits the 2X4, reach into the hole in the drywall and fish around until you find the wire. Feed the end through the hole in the 2X4 and feed it down as far as you need it to go.

When you are done with the wiring job, repair the holes in the drywall.


Thomas asks…

Anyone cut an attic access panel in their ceiling?

Long story short, I’ve been in my house for about 5yrs, and it has no access panels to the attic. Now, I’ve noticed some leaks, and I’d like to check it out. Also, I’d like to take a peak at my insulation, so again, an access panel would be sweet.

Anyone do this themselves, or is it more of a professional job?
Thanks for the answers so far.

To give some more detail, I’m quite sure there’s currently no access panels to my attic right now. My house is a 1.5 story bungalow dating from the Roosevelt administration (Teddy Roosevelt), and has gone through many remodels. The most recent was converting the attic (attic1) to a bedroom with sloping walls. When they did that, they ran wiring for lights, then drywalled over everything.

Now, i need to look in the ceiling space above this bedroom (which I guess I’d call attic2).

That’s what I meant by long story short. Thanks again.

admin answers:

There’s got to be one somewhere,,Look in all your closets. How’d they run the electrical for your ceiling lights??
If not, what you have to do is locate your ceiling rafters. Use a stud magnet to locate the drywall screws in the ceiling. Measure (from the screw) 16″, there should be another row of screws. Drill a hole @ around 8″ and use a jig saw or a sawzall and cut between the 2 rafters. If that’s not enough room to get into your attic, you may have to cut a rafter (not recommended) and box out the opening so a trap door can be installed

Betty asks…

We are putting up drywall in our garage but a friend of ours said to leave 2 holes in the ceiling is this?


admin answers:

I am assuming that you friend is suggesting that you leave an access hole to the attic space above. This is important, if you need to go into the attic for any reason (insulation, storage, mechanical maintenance, etc.) you will need to have access. The common size of the attic access is 22 inches by 30 inches. This may vary depending on local code, but it is almost universal.

If you need help or info on how to install the drywall, check out this site:


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Charles asks…

How-to install in-ceiling speakers… home prewired.?

My question isn’t necessarily how-to install the speakers, rather how to get past the conduit box. The new home is prewired for surround sound and per code the wires are loaded into a conduit box. The conduit box must go in order to install the speaker. I’ve removed the plate containing the wires and the inside of the box, but no obvious screws to loosen the box. What do I need to do? Cut the speaker layout and then I’ll find the screws holding the box? Amy other pointers?

admin answers:

I’m not sure of the state you live in, but I install all types of cieling spkrs for a living, in commercial/business enviroments. Is all construction, electrical in particular, complete? I’ll assume so since your living in it. Unless you plan on having a building code inspector crawling around your attic any time soon, don’t worry about codes. Those are just to legally pass inspection for the home to be safely occupied. Low voltage poses no danger. I recommend removing any junction boxes that pose an obsticle & run your cables to your location of chioce. In relation to your question of wattage, a great deal of sound pressure or volume, is lost to the open air behind the spkr. I recommend using an insulated back can. This is the equivilant to a spkr box. Much more power is required to reach a sufficient volume to a stand alone spkr vs an enclosed spkr. I would have recommended staying away from in wall/ceiling spkrs unless they were spec’d for exact room demensions & acoustics prior to installation. This would have been the determining factor of the spkr purchased, based on its performance in your room. Unless these things are calculated well before the first cut into a wall or ceiling, mounted enclosures would be the way to go. Its easier to patch over a few holes left from drywall anchors than it is to patch 6″-7″ holes. It makes trial & error for spkr placement a little friendlier. Email me if u like. I have 13 yrs experience in commercial audio & video. I’ll help where I can.

Nancy asks…

Hanging a hammock in a dorm room?

Does anyone know any ways to hang a hammock (eno hammock) in a dorm room???

admin answers:

If you’re hanging the hammock in a room where the walls are only 8ft (2.4m) apart you can simply offset the fixing points so that the hammock hangs diagonally across the room. It’s also worth remembering that the fixing points do not have to be the same height – one could be 11ft (3.3m) high and the other 7ft (2.1m) high for example – just make sure that the handles themselves are at an equal height.

A hook expansion bolt for hammocks Hanging (Brickwork, concrete, stone, etc.) – The easiest way to support your hammock from brickwork, concrete or stone walls is to fix in a 16mm expansion bolt (not suitable for cement block type walls). The most commonly available bolt of this kind is the Rawlhook (M10H). To fix the bolt you will need a power drill (one with a hammer action), a 16mm masonry drill bit and a smaller 4-6mmm masonry bit. If you are drilling into brickwork you should first locate the center of a brick as this will be the strongest point (use a very small drill bit to investigate plastered walls). Once you’ve marked your fixing point drill a small pilot hole with the 4-6mm bit then enlarge it with the 16mm bit to accommodate the rawlhook. Ensure that the rawlhook is fully unexpanded, tap it into the hole and turn it until it is tight. Before using the hammock ease your weight onto the unopened weave a few times and recheck the bolt – it will probably need to be retughtened a few times before it is secure.

A simple screw eye for hammocks Hanging (Ceilings, plasterboard walls, wood beams, etc.) – Supporting your hammock from ceiling joists or any other kind of woodwork is a relatively simple affair. If the woodwork is fully exposed – as with a free floating beam – simply take the rope over the beam a few times and tie a standard knot. Alternatively you can use a screw eye (approx. 8mm) and fix this into the center of the timber (drill a small pilot hole first to avoid splitting the wood). With ceilings and other locations where the timber is covered by plaster you should first locate the edges of the timber using panel pins and then fix the eye in the center. Screw eyes can be used in place of welded eyes however they will not take as much strain.

If you’re going into regular finished drywall walls – make sure you hit a stud, otherwise the first time you hop in you’re going to land on the floor.

Steven asks…

who is responsible for repairs in condo due to leaky roof?

ceiling of bathroom now has a hole in it due to water leaking from exterior, either side wall or from roof, who is responsible for the repairs inside

admin answers:

Probably your condominium association is responsible. Generally, the association owns the building and you own everything from the inside of the drywall. I would notify your board of directors and ask them to fix the roof or wall and then your ceiling.

Robert asks…

Drywall experts please. How do I fix this? ?

My husband put insullation in our attic last year. He blew it in and he blew about 16″ in. Well now that the insullation is settling the nails on my ceiling that is holding the drywall up is coming out of the studs. What can I do to fix this? It is happening all over my house. This is very frustrating. Could you please help me??

admin answers:

This is happening because your not suppose to use nails. Your gonna have to use sheetrock screws. Drywall on ceilings is 5/8 thick so you wanna use 1 3/4 or longer screws, but 1 3/4 is fine. Any hardware store will have them in stock. This is a two man (or woman) job. One person push the sheet rock up the other person screws. Set the head of the screw just past the surface, not deeper than half way. If you go to deep just put another screw next to it. Space your screws no more than 6 inchs apart to be safe. There is a lot of screwing involved so be patient and make sure you hit the studs. After your done screwing you have to cover the holes. This part you might wanna hire a pro because your gonna have to cover the holes and match your existing wall texture. But if you dont care about texture and just want the holes covered just use spakle. Spakle holes, do a light sand with a sheetrock sponge sander if needed, prime and paint. I hope this was usefull. You can email me if you have more questions.

Maria asks…

How do i mount my projector if i have a drop ceiling?

admin answers:

The other answers have the basics, but none of them plainly say you need a ceiling projector mount suitable for your projector. Mounts specific for dropped ceilings exist — see the link — but can be expensive.

Really all you need is a universal mount with a rod long enough to attach the top plate to the joists above the dropped ceiling and allow the projector to be attached to the mount at a suitable height below the ceiling. A tile dropped ceiling can then be cut to allow the rod to poke through the ceiling and reinstalled, or a drywall ceiling opened sufficiently to allow access for the mount and then patched or the hole covered with a suitable plate.

As mentioned in other answers you also need to consider weight of the projector, bolt mounting pattern and routing of the connecting and power wires.

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Paul asks…

Lighting fixtures in my kitchen?

my lighting fixtures in the kitchen are leaking some weird green liquid… i had a cover for one of the lights and it held some inside, i pulled it out and checked the wires and they look fine, what could be the problem?

admin answers:

You didn’t say whether these are flourescent or incandescent (light bulb) fixtures. If flouresecent, I’d guess it’s oil leaking from an old ballast. But if they’re incandescent, you’ve got a leak in the ceiling and you need to find it and fix it. If the liquid appears to be green colored water, my first guess is that your light fixture has a faux-brass finish, and the green is from the metal corroding. Another possibility – do you use those colored in-tank toilet freshener things? Could be this is colored water leaking from the toilet tank.

Despite Mark’s comment about “what are the chances of leaking right into the light”, this is exactly where you WOULD expect to see a leak (looking at some of his answers, I really have to wonder about his claim of being a 20yr Master Electrician). Water flows to the lowest point, and in your kitchen ceiling, that lowest point is the hole into the light fixture. I’ve walked into places where a bathroom leak upstairs has turned the light fixture globes below into fishbowls.

If you’ve got attic access above the kitchen, crawl up there and start looking for the source of the leak. If you don’t have attic access– first, starting by closely examining all water sources upstairs, checking the toilet tank and all the supply lines for signs of leaking. If you can’t find an obvious source upstairs, you’re going to have to open up the ceiling to access it from below (on the up side, there’s a good chance you’re going to have to open the ceiling to replace damaged drywall anyway).

It’s quite possible that the source of the leak is nowhere near the light fixtures. If you don’t see a puddle (or staining) on the ceiling surface between the joists, starting looking for paths that the liquid could be following to getting to the area — either along a framing member (look at the underside of the rafters above the area, or along a pipe, conduit or cable.

Helen asks…

How to soundproof an apartment?

Ok, I don’t need to soundproof the whole apartment. Just the walk in closet, which I would like to turn into a recording studio, but surprise surprise, the walls here are paper thin. The staff here say you can paint, put in nails, whatever you want really, just as long as its back to how it was when you move out.

So what could I do to keep any sound from leaving that walk in closet?

admin answers:

Sound proofing is really a tricky science, and hard to do when you are modifying something never made to be “sound-proof” The things in your favor here is that it is small, has only one door and no windows. So you have to find out what kind of sounds are coming into your closet and target those sounds. You could spend all kinds of money and just guess at what will work and then you go record, I assume you are recording live instruments, and find out that you have a low bass hum coming from someones refrigerator above or below you. Bass is really hard to remove as you know.
So you could get the anechoic chamber egg crate looking stuff which is expensive and have it do nothing. Sooooo..You could build a frame out of 2×4’s filled with fiberglass insulation and double sided with drywall, and “line” the closet with these smaller frames, make sure it doesnt touch the side walls or ceiling. Make sure all the joints are sealed up with silicone caulking. For the door, you will have to be very careful to seal up all seams. The floor would have to touch obivously, but build a false floor and set the 2×4 floor joist on rubber backed carpet, 2-3 layers perhaps. Where you have power coming in the frame, you will have to seal that hole up. The obvious problem here will be space and ventilation. YOu will get very warm and you could cut the oxygen to very low if you got it very tight, so they are always hurdles to over come.
I will add this though. With modern equipment, digital filters, the correct microphones, software etc. You can get away with more than you think as far as background noise. And remember, a dead sounding recording can be bad too. Why do you think live albums still sell. Music is “live” and “alive”, people like to invision the artist sitting somewhere in a venue playing to an audience and they start to feel like they are actually there. So dont shoot yourself in the foot with this chamber until you tried recording in an open room. Plus, rooms give natural reverb and warmth to a recording.
See if you have a friend or co-worker who has access to a warehouse space or other un-used room and go there at night. Give it a try and see what you think.
Have fun of course, that’s why you are doing it right?

Betty asks…

How do I sponge paint?

How do I sponge paint my livingroom walls without messing up? What supplies should I get to make it look like a professional did it?

admin answers:

Sea sponges, sturdy disposable plates, plastic drop cloths, painter’s tape, latex gloves, a pile of newspapers and floetrol. First, tape off baseboards or any other architectural embellishments like molding. Spread plastic sheeting on the floors because you will have drips. Second, mix whatever paints you intend to use with floetrol a paint additive that gives you more open time to manipulate the paint. I mix mine 1/3 paint, 1/3 floetrol and 1/3 water. I usually use at least 3 different shades of the same color to give the sponging dimension. I usually have at least 3 different sponges on hand, one very tiny one to get into the corners of the wall and at the ceiling, so I don’t get hat banding (a rim of the base coat around each wall). A second sponge that is always damp which is used for blending and lifting off paint that went on too heavy. A third one which is my main applicator. Always start with a damp well wrung out sponge. Pour the paint onto a sturdy plastic flat plate because this gives you even coverage on the sponge. Dip sponge on paint and blot off on newspapers.Work in small sections, like 3 x3 or 4 x 4 so you can step back and look at the application to determine the randomness or whether it got too muddy or if there are holes. If you are using more than one color, sponge on each color separately after the prior one has fully dried. Make certain to get coverage in the corners, at the baseboard line and at the joint of the ceiling to the wall for a professional, finished look. The most important tip I can give you is to practice on a piece of drywall prior to applying paint on the wall. It is well worth it because you can determine the pressure with which you need to apply the paint to get the results you desire. One hallmark of an amateur job, thumbprints. Often you can see where the person’s thumb exerted pressure through the sponge, practice will help you see and feel how not to do this.

David asks…

cracks and the wall and wallpaper?

I have lots of long, very narrow and not deep cracks on my walls. Look loke it’s just a paint cracking and maybe a bit of plaster. As I said it’s narrow, not deep at all. They are just long. Satrting mainly from the ceiling and there are two which are going from the window frame up. I thought I could cover it with a wallpaper (before of course I would fill them with something). Will it help? Will the wallpaper start cracking as well? Wha is the best option? Thanks
is the wall joint compound same as wall putty? If you could please explain the difference.

admin answers:

Wall joint compound, or all purpose drywall compound, is formulated to be spread with a knife down to a feather edge, yet have good strength and minimal shrinkage. Wall putty or spackle is somewhat thicker, and is meant for filling nail holes. You could use wall putty to fill the cracks, but I think you’d get smoother results with less sanding using joint compound. It’s not very expensive–a one gallon bucket of joint compound and a 3″ knife is less than $10.

The following link gives a little information about drywall compounds:

It may not be necessary to wallpaper after filling the cracks. If you do, make sure the surface is clean and smooth, and that the paint is not peeling. Unless your house is settling, the wallpaper should resist further cracking.

Robert asks…

Is there an easy way to insulate existing walls?

admin answers:

Cheapest method that is a do-it-yourself is to drill holes between the studs as close to the ceiling about four inches from the ceiling and buying fiber blown in insulation. Depending on the amount of insulation you purchase, the blown-in equipment will be rent free. You can buy pugs for the holes or keep the removed drywall to tape and plaster back on. I have also seen people that used a wide crown molding to cover holes. The insulation and equipment is available through Home Depot and Lowe’s

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Robert asks…

Need help hanging threaded rod through a celing that has residents upstairs?

Hello my problem is that I’m trying to hang heavel metal air conditioning ductwork in a commercial celing but the person upstairs is another business. How do I hang threaded rod through a ceiling withouht going throught the upstairs floor?? the first layer is drywall and the second layer is concrete. I can’t break through the second floor floor.

admin answers:

Use a shallow lead anchor that is set with a hammer. Tap set or hollow wall anchor set tool. Uses a hole about 1/2 inch deep and after its set it is strong as hell. You will have to punch a rather large hole through the drywall though to drill and set it.

Ken asks…

Smoke is seeping into my apartment from the apartment right below mine. Can I stop this?

It is a two-story building.

I’m highly allergic to the smoke – what do I do?

I already placed masking tape around certain corners where the floor meets the wall, where I could smell the smoke & that has helped somewhat … doesn’t look great, though!

admin answers:

Definitely not the places I would be putting any protection. Try taking off the electrical outlet covers and place a square of plastic behind them and screw the covers back on. Also, if you have gas heat check around the heating vents and the cold air return. If you take those covers off you will see the tin is fitted generally close to the size of the opening, so there may be air gaps there…..maybe stuff in steel wool and put the cover back on. Other than that, your outside windows are sealing shut when you close them and there should be a door skirt on the front door so that gap is eliminated. Floor meets the wall should not matter as there is drywall nailed to the wall and the floor is a large sheet of plywood with no gaps.(twice) as they have ceiling drywall (same as your place). I am just thinking of where actual holes are made (and that would be for electrical, cable TV and plumbing) so check under the kitchen sink and the bathroom sink and if there is a gap there close those. And you should be 100% closed off from below.

John asks…

My airconditioning vents were accidently covered with drywall. Not enough attic space to find them. How now?

We probably could find them in the game room but over the garage would be impossible. No one remembers where they were installed. Hope someone can help.

admin answers:

Your drywaller covered over your duct boots without cutting holes for them? Hah. That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard all day. Call that moron and tell him that the ceilings need to come down and be reinstalled. Idiots.

Paul asks…

On a scale from 1 to 10, how hard is hanging drywall?

admin answers:

Nonsense.. Hanging drywell is EASY.
The beauty of drywall is that you can cut it to smaller pieces if you aren’t strong enough to handle a 4X8 sheet.
The trick is to go S-L-O-W !
Tools you’ll need
Measuring tape, drywall razor blade knife, 3 putty knives(4″ 8″ 12″), Cordless power screwdriver with drywall screw bit, Drywall hoist (optional)
1) Make sure the area you are hanging the drywall on is level. Get a 2 foot or longer level and shim out the areas where there are gaps
2)Measure twice, Cut once. Measure and measure again.
3) Using a razor blade knife, cut the drywall to size. Remember the more cuts, the more taping you’ll have to do.
That’s why most people will prefer to have a helper especially for ceilings, so that you can hold the drywall in place while you run the screws. If you are alone, you can rent a drywall hoist which raises the 4×8 sheets up to the ceiling.
4)Once it’s all screwed in, begin mixing your drywall compound. Yes, I said mix! Even pre-prepped drywall joint compound can get dry, and you want to be sure it’s mixed.
5) Slowly start with ONE coat using the 4″ knife on the seams and the screw holes
6) The next day (or if it dries, sooner), get a wet sponge and feather the edges on the seams
7)Repeat with 8″ and 12″ knifes. You can use a sheet of medium to fine grit sandpaper to give it a final touch
8) Paint with primers MADE FOR DRYWALL.

Good Luck

Sharon asks…

I am putting a ceiling fan in place of a light, I need advice on support.?

In the attic were the box is, it is secured (the box) by a skinny metal rod that runs between the studs. This house was built in 1950. Is it possible that the skinny meatl rod is strong enough to hold the fans weight, or was it meant for just the weight of a light?

admin answers:

See the staff at home depot lighting department, there is a support bar that can be installed in between the joists it is expandable and if you remove the electrical box it can be slipped into the hole, assembled and installed without damaging the drywall. Just tell the staff what your doing and they ‘ll show you how it’s installed. Good Luck!

P.S. Dont forget to turn the power off!

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Donna asks…

I need an alternative to drop celing?

I’m remodeling my basement, it had drop celing in it and it was the ugliest thing i’ve ever seen. Anyway, while i would love to replace it with drywall, I can’t due to electrical access. Are there any alternatives to drywall and drop celing that will look NICE?

admin answers:

Usually and interior systems (ie, drywall, steel stud, drop ceilings) supplier will have many different patterns of drop ceiling. I’m not sure what you need for electrial access but i have drywalled basements before as long a you have access to junction boxes it is usually ok. It is usually against building codes to cover electrical junctions. If you have an electrical junction you could cut a hole in the drywall and place a false vent over it or any kind of cover you desire.

Jenny asks…

I have a major plumbing problem,Water is leaking into from my upsstair shower into my lower bathroom ceiling!

I can see the water marks on the ceiling and now it is beginning to drip,I dont want to spend 1000 of dollars on a plumber was just wondering if anyone had a clue what I should do before calling a professional?

admin answers:

First, stop using the upstairs shower. Most shower leaks are from the drain connections ( not all) If you only notice the leak while, or shortly after some one has showered it would point to drainage. If it is all the time you can suspect the water valve( supply) and pipes. One way or another the ceiling will have to come down ( at least in part) If this is your home ( not a rental) , Cut a hole into ceiling with a sharp cutting tool or hole saw. This will allow the water to start drying out and may give you a view of the leak itself. The wet drywall MUST be removed to prevent health problems ( black mold!). Wear a mask to prevent breathing drywall dust and pre-existing mold that will be present. Wear protective gloves and glasses also to be safe. Good light is a must; but don’t allow a 110 volt light source to be exposed to dripping water. Have a helper stand by for assistance. Step 1..

Chris asks…

Can I safely fill the gaps between the walls and ceiling with putty?

So this might sound kind of like a weird question, but I’m not in the know on home repair and that kind of stuff. Is it safe to fill the gaps between the walls and ceiling of my bedroom with putty? We live in a single wide trailer… not sure how old it is but the wall designs in the kitchen and bathrooms suggests late 80s/early 90s. Since we moved in three years ago, we often see spiders/ants etc come out of the gap between the walls and the ceilings of every room/hallway in the house. I’m a little sick of it, so I was just wondering if it’s safe to fill in those gaps with putty? I ask about safety solely because I imagined that somebody might have done that already if they were supposed to. Sorry if this sounds dumb, but I’m just trying to find a way to help reduce the population of creepy things in my room and I wondered if filling this gap all the way around might be a viable solution. Thanks!

admin answers:

The best easy solution to your gaps is to use paintable caulk. Get a caulk gun and the caulk, then snip the very tip off the caulk tube and poke around in it with a piece of wire to pop the foil seal.

Press it into the corner crack starting at a corner and run a long bead. Go slowly and keep the caulk gun aimed straight into the angle between the ceiling and wall to force caulk into the crack. After you run about six feet get a couple sheets of paper towel wet, wipe your finger on the towel to dampen it, and run your finger along the caulk line.

As you run your finger along it you’ll find that some caulk builds up on on the front of your finger. Whenever it builds up wipe your finger on the damp paper towel to clean and re-wet it. Continue the bead along the entire ceiling/wall joint in six foot sections.

When you’re done let everything dry for a couple days before painting if it needs it.

The reason I don’t recommend drywall tape and mud is the difficulty and mess. Its really hard to make inside corners look nice in the best of conditions.

Another option would be to install corner bead molding. You’d need some skill measuring and cutting to pull it off but it would look great if you do it right. You’d pre-paint the molding, then run a small bead of construction adhesive into the edge like I described with the caulk. No need to smooth it with your finger though. After you apply the adhesive you’d tack nail the corner bead into place, then fill holes and spot paint over them. Use the more expensive foam trim. Its a lot easier to work with and bends to fit uneven lines a lot better.. Its well worth the cost.

Lisa asks…

how hard is it to build a wall?

I am renting my parents garage to help them out with money (long story) and it is huge! I would love to divide it and separate a room. How hard would it be to build a wall?
what would i need and how would i go about doing it?
I don’t want a curtain, the room will be 8′ by 10′ and i want actual walls, they can be thin, i just want them solid.
Thanks :)

admin answers:

This is a pretty basic task. The tools required will be a saw, a drill, and a hammerdrill. Measure the height from floor to ceiling at both ends. You will notice that the front of the garage is taller than the back, due to the pitch in the floor. Measure and snap a line where you want the wall to go. Get an overall length for the wall you want to build and cut plates for the top and bottom. Holding them together, make a mark at 15-1/4″, then every 16″ along the length of the plate. This is the edge of each stud. Cut your studs the height from floor to ceiling minus 3″ for the plates. Nail through the top and bottom plates into each stud, being careful to keep the studs square. After the wall is assembled, Have a friend help you stand it up. You may need to beat it into place with a hammer. Set it to the line, hammerdrill a few holes, and fasten down with Tapcon screws. Use a level to set the ends plumb, and nail to the ceiling joists. If the wall runs the same direction as the joists, you will need to install blocking between them for nailing. Have an electrician run wires if desired, and you are ready for drywall. Good luck.

Sandy asks…

is it okay to walk on the roof in the attic?

So I am going to wire my home with cat6 ethernet! And I went up to the attic to find. Where to put the cable! But. Was instead surrounded by heaps of pink insulation covering roof and the wooden. Wall things! One is it okay to just step on the insulation and normal roof not the hard wooden rafter type thing? And two what do I use to cut the wall open! And I hear I need a box to hold the wall plate? How do I place that?

admin answers:

First of all do not step anywhere except on the trusses. Those are the wooden boards that support your ceiling. If you step anywhere but on these chances are you will fall through your ceiling. Second, you just need a keyhole saw to cut a hole into the drywall (assuming your house doesn’t have lathe & plaster wall). There are a couple different ways to mount the wall plate. The easiest way is to go to Home Depot and buy an old work, or remodel box. They have tabs that, once you tighten the screws, it will hold it up against the drywall. Hope this helps!

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Steven asks…

how to install retractable shower clothesline?

I would like to install a retractable shower clothesline (like you see in a hotel) without breaking the tile? How do I do this and do I have to use a drillbit or will something like liquid nails work?

admin answers:

Does the tile go to the ceiling? I’d be hoping to install it on the drywall, just above the tile. Be sure to try to find a stud to screw into.

If the tile goes full height, you probably have to drill it, and you are right to be worried about breaking them as some tiles are very hard. Lowe’s is now selling diamond bits in size appropriate for this kind of thing. They are the only thing that will work on some tile. But they are core bits (a tube with diamond coated edge that just cuts around the edge) – it is very difficult to start them with the bit “walking” on you. Put lots of masking tape where you don’t want the hole to protect the tile if the bit walks, go with a real slow speed and good luck.

Susan asks…

Does seeing termites during swarms mean I have them?

I live in southern Louisiana. Every year in late spring/early summer the termites swarm and we see them all over the house. Apparently the termites are subterranean and fly around the neighborhood (before losing their wings?) and find their way into the house, that’s what I’ve been told. They are seen everywhere, then after a few days they just disappear. They swarm during dusk and early night normally. This house is at least 15 years old, it may be even around 20, maybe even a bit older than that. We have never seemed to have major termite issues (aka no signs of an infection). There are also no signs of any structural issues either. The termites have been doing this every year for as long as I can remember.
I am not seeing mud mounds or whatever, I am seeing TERMITES. They are seen crawling mainly in the hallway and the laundry room. Also, we don’t have a basement.
Also, the climate around this area is very humid and hot.
I went to use the restroom, and ….and……
at least 40, in a spider web.
I had to use the other restroom.

admin answers:

Hard to say if your house is infested if no damage has yet to be seen. Best way to find that out is to shine a bright light at a sharp angle across the walls, ceiling and wood trim. The buggers will eat the drywall paper and wood behing the texture and paint which will create shallow depressions or ripples in those surfaces. If you see any, rub those with a finger to see if the paint crumbles away. If it does then you’ll see crud like sand on the chips and gypsum. That’s termite poo and they’re going to town devouring your house.
I’ve found winged termites in my homes before because they were actively eating away at the framing and even the paper in the sheet vinyl floor covering under the refrigerator. Looked like it had varicose veins. The stinkers came up thru the holes in the slab where the water supply pipes ran up. I did the repairs myself since that’s my trade and treated beneath the slab myself using an airless to pump some of that good chloradane I bought at a garage sale some years earlier. Yours might of just flown inside if you see no evidence of activity. I don’t know if closing up the house for awhile after setting off several bug bombs will help eliminate any lurking around but would be worth the effort IMHO.

Nancy asks…

how do i fix a drilled wire and will it still work the same?

my dad was drilling a hole in the wall and hit a wire i think it is for the socket as that is the only fuse to pop im currently renting the property and the owner wants to cut and chop the wire then add a few connectors will this be safe?? will i be able to use the socket once he has done this and will it take door bell, burgular alarm and door bell load??

admin answers:


The National Electrical Code requires all splices to be made in a box [NEC 110.14, 300.15] by means of listed [NEC 110.3(b)] connectors; AND to remain ACCESSIBLE [NEC 314.29]. This means that you must be able to access the splice without removing any of the building finish [NEC Article 100].

It is possible to place a junction box in the wall, and to make the splice in the box, but, you must also have 6” of free wire at each end of the spliced connection [NEC 300.14]. To make this work, you must have a LOT of slack cable in the wall. Sometimes you do, sometimes you don’t. You don’t want to just pull as hard as you can on the cable, either, as that will damage the conductors; possibly causing a short circuit elsewhere. If you can get enough slack to do this, you must use listed connectors and/or clamps to secure the cable assemblies to the box; and, you must mount the box securely, and use a “blank” face plate to cover the box opening. You must also leave the box no more than ¼” behind any non-combustible finish (drywall, plaster, masonry, tile, etc.). If there is a combustible surface finish (wood paneling, for example), the box or device ring must be flush with, or project beyond, the combustible finish. [NEC 314.20]

The safest (and more than likely, the only legal) way to repair this is to find the outlet box at either end of this cable assembly and try to use the old cable to pull some new cable into place. Sometimes you get lucky, and find that the installer did not secure the cable assembly very well, and you can pull it free fairly easily. It is best to tie a string, or tape a fish tape to the end of the conductors you are pulling out, and then use that to pull in the new cable.

The reality of it is, you are probably going to have to do some patching of the wall and ceiling finishes in several locations; because you will not be able to pull the cable out, let alone pull a new length in. Type NM cable must be protected by “Cable Plates” or “Stud Guards” (whatever they are referred to in your location, it varies) any time it is necessary to drill through a framing member and you cannot position the drill to leave 1-1/4” of wood in front of the hole [NEC 300.4 (A) (1) & (2)]. While Type NM cable is required by Code to be fastened securely, there is an exception that lets you fish it through wall and ceiling cavities without supporting or securing it.

An alternative (with the landlord’s permission) would be to replace the damaged conductors using a listed and approved surface raceway system. All required transition fittings, boxes, etc must be installed per the Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions; and, an equipment grounding conductor must be included when the raceway system is not listed as a grounding conductor.

My best advice is that you hire a qualified, licensed electrical contractor to do the job. It will be done correctly, and safely. If you need to save a little cash, save it by doing any required patching yourself.

Added note:
I agree 125% with RPA

Helen asks…

how do I repair a leaky ceiling due to laundry room over flow?

My washer drain hose popped out and for some reason my over flow drain didnt catch all the over flow water. How can I fix the soft spot in my dinning room ceiling??

admin answers:

First thing go ahead a cut a small hole about 4″x4″ in the soft area. You have to get the water out and let it dry. Put some plastic on the floor and have a bucket handy because you probably have a puddle up there. Soak up as much as you can with a sponge or paper towels. You may have to open up between more than one joist space if the area is really large.

Allow the drywall to air out for about a week. Then check the remaining drywall to see if it is still soft. Sometimes, if not too much damage has been done, you can just remove the blistered paint, patch the hole and repaint. If it is still real soft you will have to cut out the soft stuff and put up new drywall.

Good Luck!

Chris asks…

how do i install a chandelier?

i recently purchased a beaded chandelier for my room. it’s just one that has to be plugged into the wall, not one that needs actual “installing” with wires and such. it came with a hook and two screws. my dad is trying to tell me that i can’t hang it from our ceiling because the drywall won’t hold it up with just the hook and screws. is that true? would it be too heavy for the ceiling? or can i just hang it from the hook and be done with it?

admin answers:

Pop is correct. If you hang the light from just the sheetrock in the ceiling it will pull out and fall to the floor. You need to either find a stud in the ceiling (2 x 4) or use a special screw such as a screw with a spring-loaded nut and butterfly (can’t recall the name at the moment). Basically, you make a hole where you want the screw, thread the nut and spring-loaded butterfly onto the screw and push it through the hole. The butterfly opens up and expands behind the sheetrock. It expands the area and prvents the screw from pulling out of the hole. There are several types of fastening methods for use with sheetrock.

Just ensure that the light isn’t too heavy for these methods as well. If the light is very heavy, it’s best to find and screw into a stud.

Good luck

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Paul asks…

I am remodling a house I just bought and the walls are cracked terribly. It was built in 1937 and the walls..

are plastered with paint over them. I have been trying to cover the cracks and holes with joint compound but it is a neverending process and it still looks horrible. After priming the surface, I was thinking about mixing some joint compound with some paint of different colors and putting on my own kind of texture with a roller. Do you think this will work? If so, what kind of roller should I use? I already have some Well-Cote rollers of some different styles. Would they work? Any and all advice would be helpful. Thank you and have a great weekend!
The problems isn’t bad enough to level the whole house or put new sheet rock on. It is mainly just in the stairway which I would guess was neglected and wasn’t painted as much as the other rooms in the house. Thanks for the input.

admin answers:

If removing the plastered walls is out of the question. Chances are your whole home is like that, in that case, caulk the cracks and paint. It doesn’t hurt the value of your home. If you cant live with it, [I couldn’t] then Joint compound will work but I use USG Brand easy sand fast setting powder. There are other brands that work well too. That way you can recoat in a preset amount of time. There is a number on the bag [ 5, 20, 45, 90, 120,] The numbers roughly stands for how much time, in minuits, of work time you have before it sets up. I suggest that you get the highest. You can find it were you bought the compound. Mixing with water to about the same consistancy as your ready mixed joint compound. Coat the wall a heavy 1/8th inch over every part. Let set up, clean your tools and coat it again. You will notice that it is smoother on the second coat. Now one more coat, but this time you are putting the mud on and taking it all back off. This fills pit holes, scraches, and knife marks. Wait a day and sand it but not much, just spots that really need it. Prime the wall, and use a light against the wall to circle with a pencil the spots that need addressed with a little more mud. I use a little colored chalk in this coat of mud so when it dries I can see it to sand it. Thats what I do when a costomer wants a smooth wall done cheap. There are spots that might recrack in a couple years [ i tell the costomer that there is not a product that will hold up a settling house]. Personally I would remove that old plaster one wall or room at a time and hang drywall. Ceilings too. At that time you can upgrade wireing, insulation, and modern smoke detectors. Side note, save the old trim and refinish it.

John asks…

radio interference inside a wall?

there is a wall in my front entry, bordering the inside of my closet, that the house plan shows that is hollow, the thing is, its emmitting strange radio frequencies, not like voices but buzzing or bells we have wifi internet but when we hold radio up to the hub it makes a different noise. we are almost 100 percent sure it is something inside the walls and not something in the closet. we are the second owners of this house built in 1994, and we know from experiences in the past that the builder/contractor took some shortcuts to save money, resulting in damages ranging from premature rotting deck, leaky pool pump, leaky water faucet/water heaters, to slight mold/mildew issues throughout the house. the only thing i want to know is why my wall is making such strange radio interference and how i can stop it, and WHAT THE HECK it is.
is it common in houses?
i have a radio that picks up interference from inside the wall, no other radios of mine do, when you take the radio outside or away from the wall the interference clears up, itsnot radio static from the station its in the house.

admin answers:

How do you know it is emitting strange radio frequencies? You can’t hear at radio frequencies–it is much too high. However, if something is making radio frequency interference (RFI), you may be able to hear the resulting static on a radio or TV. But if you hear buzzing or bells coming out of the wall, that is not radio frequency interference at all. You’ve got some source of audible noise.

The architect that drew up your house plans would not normally leave a hollow space without some purpose. What it may be is a “chase”, which is an enclosed area from floor to ceiling that is used for mechanical functions including heating/ac ducts, exhaust fan ducts, drain pipes, water heater inlet air and the like.

So you may have something that is moving around in this hollow space, making noises. If the attic is directly over this space, or the basement or crawl space is underneath, why don’t you try to see if there are any ducts or pipes going through this area. If you can’t look in the top or bottom, go ahead and cut a hole in the drywall to take a look inside. It’s not that hard to patch drywall. If you don’t know how, look up my last answer for help.


I’d be interested to learn if only one of your radios has this effect when in proximity to the hollow wall. What I’m thinking is that there may be a large metal object in the wall. Large metal objects tend to behave like antennas, absorbing and focusing radio energy. This energy is probably coming from a local source–perhaps a radio station, a CB radio, a television set gone awry, or, heaven forbid, a radio amateur (“ham”). When your radio comes close, its circuitry is not selective enough to reject this higher strength out-of-band radio signal, as compared to the weaker signal for the station you are listening to. Other radios, with other circuitry, may not have this problem.

Nancy asks…

how do cold rivets and hot rivets work?

How do cold rivets and hot rivets work? and what are the advantages and disadvantages of using them?

admin answers:

A rivet is a permanent mechanical fastener. Before it is installed it consists of a smooth cylindrical shaft with a head on one end. The end opposite the head is called the buck-tail. On installation the rivet is placed in a punched or pre-drilled hole. Then the tail is “upset” (i.e. Deformed) so that it expands to about 1.5 times the original shaft diameter and holds the rivet in place. To distinguish between the two ends of the rivet, the original head is called the factory head and the deformed end is called the shop head or buck-tail.

Cold rivets are widely used in woodworks and drywall and ceiling works. While hot rivets are widely used in hydraulic machines, mechanical flanges and industrial metal work.

For advantages and disadvantages please click this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivets


Richard asks…

What is sound proofing? How do you sound proof rooms?

admin answers:

Soundproofing can mean many things. Usually it refers to treating a room to prevent sound transmission into or out of a room. All of these will help.

1) Sealed. No open holes – weather striping around the door.

2) Sound transmission
Thicker dry wall 5/8 instead of 1/2″
Insalltion in the wall
Isolated wall (i.e. Each side of the wall has it’s own set of studs, they are staggered so the inside drywall is on one set of studs spaced 16″ apart, the other wall surface is on a different set of studs that is set back 1-2″ and are spaced in teh center of the gaps of the other studs)

Make walls thicker 6″ or 8″
solid wood door instead of hollow
glass door instead of hollow (I was amazed at how quiet my office is when I swtiched to a glass door) the mass of the glass reduces noise.

3) Absorbsion – to cut down on a room’s noise add absorbsion. In a room with hard floors, wall, and ceiling (like a racquet ball court) you get reverberation – sound bounces around. If you add say carpet on the walls/floor – that disapates the sound and less sound reflects off and bounces around.

Carpet on floor instead of wood / tile
Acoustic ceiling tiles
Acoustic tiles on wall
Carpet on walls

Sandy asks…

In my bathroom I have one switch and a bar light. how do I add a 2nd switch to power a new exhaust fan?

There is power to one switch in the bathroom currently (which operates the bar light above a mirror). I want to install a new exhaust fan. how do I add a second switch for the fan from the power that is already in the bathroom?

admin answers:

You are going to more than likely bore a new hole down from the attic if there is no room over top of the bathroom to get an electric line from the site of the new fan down through the wall to the area of the existing switch. You will then either have to get the old single switch box out of the wall and replace it with a double switch box or add another box next to it. That would be called an Old Work Box that would install in the drywall only. If using the old work box you will need to get a wire from the existing box over to the new box and then get the wire coming through the wall from the new fan into it as well. Don’t forget that the most important thing you need to do with the fan is get the exhausted moist air OUT of the building, it can’t be dumped into an attic or ceiling space above. If you don’t get it out of the building mold will form followed by rot and a real mess.

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Ken asks…

how far apart are ceiling joist suppose to be?

I’m trying to hang Hiloft storage shelves in garage. Having a hard time finding joist even with a stud finder. any suggestions

admin answers:

Standard for ceiling joists is 16″. That allows 48″ drywall to be attached without cutting. In a garage, if there is no second floor above it the might be 24″. In a garage you can surely find a seam in the ceiling that is not well hidden. Use that as a starting point and measure in units of 48″ to where you want to hang the shelves (16″ or 24″ as you get close.)
Drive a small nail through the ceiling where you think a joist might be and work out either direction in 1″ increments until you find it. You can then chew up some tissue and use that to fill the holes. You can make them disappear (assuming a white ceiling.)

Helen asks…

Best way to insulate a garage?

We have two bedrooms over our garage and they are always colder in the winter and warmer in the summer than the rest of the home. The garage is already finished out (sheetrock on walls and ceiling). We considered tearing down the sheetrock on the ceiling and having foam insulation sprayed, but this will be very costly. We are going to buy the insulated panel to put on the garage doors. Is there any material or product that can be put directly over the existing sheetrock, any other tricks to better insulate a garage?

admin answers:

Check out AirKrete, it’s a cementitious foam. It shouldn’t be necessary to pull down the drywall, all they need is a hole between each stud to spray it in, plus it’s fireproof and that’s important for a garage. Other foam insulation products are based on polyurethane and though they often have a fire rating, they will burn.

Note that the sheetrock used in a garage is Type X fire resistant drywall, not regular drywall or at least it shouldn’t be regular drywall.

Donald asks…

Fill up holes on the wall left by cables for TV?

our house has a bunch of direct TV cables through the wall (both exterior and interior and also on the ceiling of my garage) from the previous owner. Once I remove the cables, how do I cover up the hole? Should I use silicon caulk or can I just use joint compound?

Thanks !

admin answers:

Suggest it depends on what the surrounding material is. On the drywall,I would use drywall mud. Inside the garage where there is wood my choice would be silicone caulk or sawdust and glue.

Steven asks…

I live in a condo and I hear everything above me how can I sound proof my ceiling, there is a space between?

The unit above has a thin concrete floor with padding and carpet but it doesn’t help, can I fill the space between their floor and my ceiling with any kind of sound proofing I can hear every word and every step their dog takes The ceiling was opened for an inspection by the builder and there seems to be at least a foot of space between their unit and mine, is their a save sound proofing material I can either have blown in or installed in any other way

admin answers:

Probably the best type of sound barrier would be some type of foam. Spray foam or foam sheets are what they usually use to soundproof music studios. If you can remove your ceiling tiles, I would suggest foam sheets. They can be cut to fit and stapled in place. If you have a drywall ceiling, I would recommend the foam since is can be sprayed through small access holes that can easily be repaired.

William asks…

I want to redecorate my room, but i can’t convince my dad?

Well my room is hideous: It has a whole in the wall, my wall is all sorts of different colors,All i have are baby pictures,my bedspread is old and torn up,my bed is for little kids,my room is VERY tiny. But innof of that complaining!?

I have told my dad repeatedly that i want it fixed. I even tried bribes:) But he always tells me okay next weekend and then never does it!
His excuse bucket has a hole in it!

How do i convince him to help me with my room?

admin answers:

Well Sunshinee, you now know the futility of trying to control other people, even great leaders cant get people to do what they want every time and they can pay people! Repeating instructions does not seem to be getting you there and your emphasis on his response is just going to lock you into a powerstruggle and you lose cause its your room.
Sometimes we have to grow up before our parents do, inspite of them.
If you want to redecorate your room, take the initiative to do it yourself.
A small room is easier and cheaper to redecorate. Start by taking this over as your project, dont discuss it with anyone, just do it. Clear off the walls and scrub them down, Sort out your clutter and clean off the floor, use paper bags for storage if you have to. Once its clean, then decide how you want to proceed, if you have no money, get a part time job and use it to buy a bag of joint compound, research drywall repair online and fix the hole yourself. Prepare the wall and then when you can buy a gallon of paint something clean and light that you like use a durable finish like eggshell, and do several coats until it looks alot better, paint the ceiling too. Paint your furniture with semigloss paint and cover your bed with a new bright colored sheet and pillowcase, and find a Poster or make a collage that inspires you.
Heal your own life, make this room your safe haven… You deserve it.

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Lisa asks…

Anyone know how to finish a kitchen ceiling that has exposed drywall?

ok…me and my girlfriend are going to attempt to remodel my kitchen…we are starting with the ceiling, which has exposed drywall and cracks in the corners…anyone know any good sites or techniques to finish a ceiling…u r speaking to 2 ameteurs….

admin answers:


Robert asks…

Want to install drywall onto existing t-bar ceiling, can it be done?

To save time of removing t-bar and time/cost of installing framing want to screw drywall directly onto t-bar.
A mechanical engineer told me that it can be done.
T-Bar is pretty old, installed in the 70s.
I weigh 220lbs and have hung off it and it was ok.
Never done this before and all my drywall friends say the ceiling will sag in time.

admin answers:

If you can hang from it ,it is really strong, but think about this. How would you fasten the drywall to it? The only way I can think of is with screws and that would be difficult. It has to be pretty tough metal and pilot holing for drywall screws would be a lot of hard tedious work. If you do it, leave yourself an access hole to get up in there to adjust the wires if it does sag in time.

David asks…

Change a dropped ceiling?

How do you change a dropped ceiling to a normal ceiling? Where do you being?

admin answers:

First where is this new ceiling going to be. Are you replacing a basement dropped ceiling. That means a lot on how to change a dropped ceiling.
Make a plan, include in the plan the materials you will need. 2×6’s, drywall, drywall screws, drywall mud, drywall tape w/out holes, nails, joist hangers, tools you will need. Etc.
Check your structure
put up a perimeter of wood, secure it soundly to the walls
purchase 2 x 6’s enough to do the joists and the perimeter, they should be 16″ on center (center means to the center of the edge of the 2 x 6’s), secure the joists to the perimeter wood.
Purchase drywall. You should buy at least 3/4″ thick. If you use thinner it may sag. Attach the drywall to the joists with the drywall screws. Then cover them with the drywall tape and mud ( use the tape on the seams) Sand and paint

Susan asks…

Can drywall be used as a type of flooring in the house?

I am a renter of a 2 bedroom single home. The house dates back to 260 years old. My husband and I ripped up the carpet in our upstairs playroom and the flooring is pretty much drywall (mold resistant). The is no padding and there is (2) 5inch deep holes. Is this illegal??

admin answers:

Drywall shouldn’t be used as sub-floor in a home as it is not structural. Depending on your joist spacing it should either be 1/2″-3/4″ OSB or something similar. It could be an extremely old particle board that has aged. Also if your playroom was converted from an old attic space it could very well be drywall placed on the ceiling joists to cover up the insulation. Contact a local contract or inspector to take a look at it, but be sure you contact the landlord or the person you’re renting from.

Joseph asks…

Tiny crater like holes in the ceiling?

These must have been there for a while, but I noticed a series of maybe 15 tiny tiny pinhole size craters in the ceiling. I don’t know if it matters but they’re next to some old cracks. What could that be?

admin answers:

Very likely someone repaired the spot previously with drywall compound. These holes are pretty common, and I got a few on a recent paint prep job. If they bother you, fill them with spackling compound. I prefer lightweight spackle from Red Devil. It dries fast and hard. Use a putty knife to push it into the little holes, then smooth over the repair to level it. Sand lightly and touch up the paint if necessary. Good luck!

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James asks…

What should I do to fill in exhaust fan hole in my kitchen?

First off here is a pic….


My main question is what should I do with the 14″ diameter hole left in the ceiling once I pull out old exhaust fan. Do I use some type of drywall or board backing method to patch it? It’s a solid metal cylinder up to atmosphere it appears, so I don’t think plaster board with cleats will work. The house was built in 56 so it’s all plaster. Any advise you can give me would be appreciated.

admin answers:

Wherever it leaves the roof, cap it, fill the pipe with insulation and drywall over the hole.

Daniel asks…

Plumbers! I have rust build-up in my hot water line… do I have do a tear out or can I use something else?

I just wanted to know if I could use a solution like CLR or Liquid Scale. I used Liquid Scale once in the lines when I moved into the house, but did not want to overdo it too much and end up eating a hole in the line. This was 9 months ago. Would it be safe to try again? I have very low water pressure on the HOT only and can get some rust sediment to come out when I “bang the pipes” at the main line from the hot water heater, with a rubber mallet. I’m afraid that if I do too much I will just cause a break somewhere in the piping where rust has built up and I will have to repipe it all, which would be costly on a number of levels. I do not have a basement or crawl space, so the pipes are in the walls throughout. Any thoughts? Tips? Help… I need some tricks of the trade.
Follow up details since it seems I won’t “fix” it.

It’s a small house, slab on grade, with a T at the Hot water Heater… one going about 10 feet to the Kitchen line (sink/dishwasher)… and the other going about 15 total feet to the bathroom (sink/Bathtub)

There is a knock out panel at the bathtub on the opposite side of the wall for access to the piping. What would a replacement job estimate at? Labor cost? Time? Would you guarantee damage done to any kind of laminate flooring, walls or tile?

I am young, and don’t want to spend a lot. A small sounding job I know can run big bucks for labor.

admin answers:

I agree with the others, you are fixing to have to replace some pipes. It sounds from your description, that you have galvanized steel pipes. What I do is abandon the old steel pipes in place, and install new CPVC plastic pipes right next to them. You don’t have to tear out a lot of drywall, just an 18″X18″ hole at the ceiling, and another down where the pipes protrude through the wall. A smaller hole needs to be in the ceiling, so you can glue your pipes from the wall, to the pipes in the ceiling. Plastic pipe is flexible enough to bend it to install it through these holes. It doesn’t sound like you have alot of plumbing pipe to replace. It sounds from your description, that you have 1 bath and the kitchen, and maybe a laundry room. Materials would be about $250 for all your pipe and fittings, glue, and insulation. You will need a good drill and drill bit to drill new holes for the pipes to drop out of the ceiling into the walls. Strap the pipes down good, so you won’t get “hammering pipes”(vibration), when the water flows through your pipes. Good luck!

Donald asks…

how to get birds out of my roof?

it seems a few birds got into the corner of my roof, not through the soffit and facia, but under the shingles and subroof itself. i suppose they are building a nest. there is no way into this area, but i have seen the entry hole and birds going in and out. it wouldnt be so bad, but i hear them pecking away at the drywall on my ceiling. ripping the paper up to make a nest i suppose. any ideas to flush them out before i seal the hole?

admin answers:

Depending where you live, you may find that all birds nests are protected by law, and therefore work to deny birds access to the roof-space must be done during the winter months when birds are not nesting (but pigeons can nest throughout the year). Check your building each winter, ideally between October and February, or ask someone else to do it for you. Clean out and seal any holes or gaps as appropriate. Do this during the morning to minimise the risk of roosting birds being trapped in.

If there is doubt that all birds have left, fix a fine wire mesh over the entrance so that you can see any trapped birds. Only make a permanent repair when you are certain that no birds remain.

My b/f from the UK tells me that many of the birds that use roof spaces are now species of conservation concern because of their population decline over the past 25 years. Starlings and house sparrows are red listed!! They need help, so if the roof must be sealed off, place nest boxes under the eaves for starlings and sparrows.

David asks…

any ideas about finishing an attic cheap?

i have put in insulation. now i need to figure out what to put on walls and ceiling to finish it. i am looking for out of the box ideas that would be very cost efficient that i could do myself. i am no carpenter but am willing to experiment with new ideas especially if i can save money.

admin answers:

Before insulating plan where light fixtures and outlets will be placed, install junction boxes and wire accordingly.
Do not compress insulation against roof sheathing and where the roof meets the floor, it will trap warm air in the winter and lead to icicle problems and condensation and mold problems from blocked soffits.
Install baffles to hold back the insulation so it is not blocking vents/soffits or against any electrical or fan.
Lay a vapor barrier on the floor with the insulation or use batt insulation with kraft paper or foil vapor barrier attached.
Measure to find how much plywood, drywall or beadboard you will need.
Use plywood for the floor, you may have to add sister joists to strengthen to bear the extra weight load.
Drywall would be cheaper but it would be easier to install tongue and groove beadboard for the ceiling, drive 4d finishing nails through the tongues into the joists, slip each plank’s groove over the tongue, tap each piece until it fits snugly, you will probably have to cut the last plank to fit, drill a pilot hole and use a jigsaw to cut openings for electrical, add trim/molding and you’re done.
If you hang drywall use standard drywall, it comes in 4X8 or 4X10 ft. Sheets.
(you might have to cut it to fit thru attic opening)
Prime drywall before painting.
Try craigslist, enter your city and enter drywall or plywood in the search “for sale” on the left…I tried for my city (milwaukee) a guy is selling 15 sheets of drywall for $10

Betty asks…

Do you have to leave your home for an extended period of time when having asbetos removed?

admin answers:

The amount of time you would need to be gone from your house would depend upon the amount of asbestos to be abated and the types of repairs that need to be done.

You do want to make sure your contractor has a license to abate the asbestos.

As an example, my old apartment had asbestos in the ceiling texturing (very common place for it) and we had to have our air conditioner replaced which was mounted in the ceiling. They cut out a hole about 4’x6′ and replaced it with new drywall and texturing plus installed the new A/C unit. Took a total of less than 2 hours.

Do you consider that an extended amount of time?

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